Study on crude extract from several species of Vietnam seaweed (macroalgae) for cosmetic application.

Project leader's name
Dr. Principal Researcher Ngo Thi Hoai Thu
Research hosting institution
Institute of Biotechnology
Project duration
2017 - 2018
́Project’s budget
600,000,000 VND
Classify
Excellent
Goal and objectives of the project

To produces the product used as a face mask from the seaweed source of Vietnam

Main results

- Theoretical results:
+ We screened 4 potential species from 12 species seaweeds of Vietnam (Caulerpa lentillifera, Kappaphycus alvarezii, Sargassum crassifolium and Ulva reticulata). These species contained highest levels of protein, lipid, polysaccharide, carotenoids, chlorophyll, vitamins A, C and E. They can be grown on a large scale, high exploited stocks and meet the specification that required for raw material when applied to the cosmetic products;
+ Determination of the preserved conditions of seaweed material is fresh and kept at -20 oC from 1 to 6 months (C. lentillifera, S. crassifolium and U. reticulata), from 1 to 3 months ((K. alvarezii).
+ Extraction conditions of four Vietnamese seaweed species are with warm water, continuously stirring at 150 rpm/min in the period of 6-12 hours at room temperature or 60 °C. Specifically, the seaweed: water ratio were 5: 1 (w / v) for C. lentillifera; 1: 1 (w / v) for S. crassifolium; 1: 3, (w / v) for U. reticulata; and 1: 5 (w / v) for K. alvarezii.
+ Determination of bioactivity of 4 seaweed extracts from 4 species (C. lentillifera, K. alvarezii, S. crassifolium và U. reticulata) in individual or mixture (1:1:1:1, w/w/w/w) is antioxidant, antibacterial, cell proliferation, moisture retention, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities. In particular, the bioactivity of seaweed extract mixtures was the highest.
+ Determination of formulation for making cream face mask from seaweeds is demineralized water (59,75 %), blanose CMC 7HOF (0.5 %), emulsifying wax (7 %), propylene glycol (5 %), belsil DM 10 (4 %), glycerin (1 %), talc JA 24R (12 %), lunamer 42 (0.5 %), preservative agent PE 9010 (0.05 %), supplemented with 5 mg/mL of mixture of C. lentillifera, S. crassifolium, U. reticulata, and K. alvarezii extracts with ratio of 1:1:1:1 (w:w:w:w) - 5 %, and betaglucan (from Yeast – 5%). The cream face mask has moisturizing, anti-UV, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and skin whitening properties.
+ Determination of form of face mask from seaweeds is cream form.
+ The process making the cream face mask from seaweeds at the scale of 5 kg raw material/batch with stable, repeatable and high-efficiency properties and practical application is determined. The average performance of the process of achieving 2 kg of fresh seaweed with 4 above seaweed species will create 1 kg of face mask.
+ The seaweed cream mask was safe and no irritating to normal human skin and it satisfied provisions of Circular No. 06/2011/TT-BYT dated 25/01/2011 of the Vietnam Ministry of Health, providing cosmetic management for the cosmetic products with anti-aging and moisturizing activites.
+ The basic standards of SEAWEED CNTCREAM product have been provided by Institute of Biotechnology with Decision No. 659 / QD-CNSH dated 9/11/2018.

- Applied results:
+ Established the process for making cream face mask from seaweed at the scale of 5 kg raw material/batch with stable, repeatable and high efficiency properties and practical application.
+ The cream face mask from seaweed had moisturizing, anti-UV, anti-aging, antibacterial, and skin whitening activities, low cost and safe for users.

Some images of the project:

T4.26nththu1

Novelty and actuality and scientific meaningfulness of the results

For the first time in Vietnam, the cream face mask has been created from a combination of 4 Vietnamese seaweed species. This product is safe and effectively whitens the skin and improves skin condition in healthy women. It is easy to use and can be transfer to the beauty center.

Products of the project

- Products for research and development of technology:
+ 01 list of potentially seaweed species used as raw materials for cosmetic.
+ 01 Face mask making process from seaweed at the scale of 5 kg raw material/batch.
+ 01 Basic standard of cream face mask from seaweed and user manual
- Scientific papers in referred journals (list):
- SCI-E:

  1. Ngo Thi Hoai Thu, Hoang Thi Lan Anh, Hoang Thi Minh Hien, Nguyen Cam Ha, Lưu Thi Tam, Tran Xuan Khoi, Tran Mai Duc, Dang Diem Hong (2018) Preparation and evaluation of cream mask from Vietnamese seaweeds. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69: 447-462, November/December, 2018.

Domestic paper:

  1. Dang Diem Hong, Phan Bao Vy, Ngo Thi Hoai Thu, Tran Xua Khoi, Nguyen Cam Ha, Luu Thi Tam (2018) Evaluation of bioactivities and formualation face mask from Sargassum sp. extract. Academia Journal of Biology, 40(3): 106–112.
  2. Ngo Thi Hoai Thu, Phan Bao Vy, Tran Van Khoi, Nguyen Cam Ha, Luu Thi Tam, Tran Mai Duc, Dang Diem Hong (2018) Evaluation of Bioactivities and formulation face mask from brown seaweed (Pandina sp.) extract. Proceedings of National Biotechnology Conference 2018 (at National Convention Center, on 26.10.2018). Publishing House for Natural Science and Technology, p. 212 - 217 (With ISBN: 978-604-913-759-4).

- Attend a conference (CASEAN-5) at Da Lat on 4-7/10/2017 with oral:

  1. Ngo Thi Hoai Thu, Nguyen Cam Ha, Hoang Thi Lan Anh, Dang Diem Hong (2017) Evaluation of hot water extract mixture from seaweed as a source of cosmetic additive. The 5th Academic Conference on Natural Science for Young Scientists, Master and PhD Students from ASEAN Countries (CASEAN – 5). p. 49.

- Patents (list):
The commecial name of cream “SEAWEED CNTCREAM” has been registed and accepted by the National Office of Intellectual Property, Ministry of Science and Technology (Decision No. 68450 / QD-SHTT) signed on 28/9/2018.

- Technological products (describe in details: technical characteristics, place):
+ 2 kg of product - SEAWEED CNTCREAM Mask Cream Mask was stored in the Department of Algal Biotechnology, Institute of Biotechnology, VAST.

- Other products (if applicable):
Master: 01 (Phan Bao Vy; USTH, thesis defent in 9/2018)

Place of application

Can be used in the beauty center (Spa) in Hanoi.

Recommendations

- Research on the nutritional composition of 4 potential seaweed species which selected raw material for cosmetic as seasonal variation and geo-graphical location; To study the raw material area suitable for cosmetic products on a larger scale;
- To study the preservated conditions of seaweeds and products to increase the ability to produce products on a larger scale;
- To research and create other types of cosmetic products from the Vietnamese seaweed to meet the characteristics of different types of skin of the Vietnamese.
- Research and development of technology to produce cosmetics from Vietnam seaweed accepted by the market.

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